Collar to cuff: Anatomy construction.

When my draft garment was complete I moved on to producing best patterns that include seam allowance and are attached straight onto the fabric and cut around.

Then I had to complete my print. As the theme was anatomy I went with one of the most interesting parts of the body the human heart. It is a repeating pattern of white dye on black cotton. 

Construction was easy, as during the drafting process I made notes and on how I had made it. At first I thought i had made the garment too small but I was assured it would be fine once I had inserted the zipper. 

The finished article. I am incredibly pleased with the outcome even though I had put it on the block a bit wonky. 

And the back view, still wonk at this point. And severely in need of pressing. 

Collar to cuff. Realising my garment.

As soon as I knew what garment I would be making I drafted my pattern using a standard dress block. I then had to add the princess seam front and back and in my sleeves. My practice Toile has come out surprisingly good. I reconsidered the shoulder padding but here it is.

I've used a zipper up the front hook and eyes on the collar and cuff. There's no embroidery yet as I'm going to print a guide on to black cotton on the princess panels, collar and cuff. 

Here is the back view, don't be to harsh as it hadn't  been pressed here. 

Collar to cuff.

The next project of the course is called Collar to Cuff. It draws on th shirt making our class has been doing since September. The idea is to collect reaserch into a theme mine was anatomy. 

Then design from the reaserch. Using various medical and Antony images I started my design process. I've tryed to take direct inspiration where possible but the main bulk is centerd around prints and embroidery.

    

Then I came to think who whould wear these garments? Not many people would be seen in 3d sulks with a fringed hem. So I thought of people like Gaga and Kat Von D. That brought me to a tattooist living in L A. 

She would be a extrovert with business on her mind. Some one who wants to look great but still professional. A fan of the bizarre and unusual. Allthough it's a very niche category the collection would be aimed directly at that style of customer. 

After I figured out who would wear my collection i had to pick my final designs that where to be discussed in a design meeting. We critiqued each others work and all came to a decision as to which of our garments we would take into production. My final designs are below.

Here I was inspired by the skeletal structure and this garment would be a boxy boyfriend style shirt, with an appliqué skelliton. And the collar was to be printed with bone detail. 

All over trapunto, in the shape of skulls a shredded hem and ribbon covered puff ball sleeves. This was one of my favourites but the critics did not choose it.  

This garment was inspired buby fetal abnormalities (odd I know, but I'm just abit odd anyway) deep ruffles would surround the arms and hips emulating brains and two fetal style faces would create an interesting neckline. 

This design is a basic fitted shirt in white cotton with a printed rib cage and hip structure. This would be then topped with delicately folded organza to recreate a rib style all the way down the front, sewn in at the button stand. 

The heart was my muse for this desing and the veins in particular. An embroidered vein structure would be surrounded by a padded hem and collar. 

The straight jacket although not anatomy it crept it's way in under the thought of medical horrors. Here I aimed to make a quite horrible garment girly by adding a heavily pleated skirt and waist thinning illusion panels. 

Here is one of my most favorite designs and it was inspired by the inner workings of the hand and Mariano Fortuni pleated dresses. It would be loose on the body and have delicately pleated batwingsleeves with the internal workings of the hand embroiderd on to them. 

The specimen again clearly inspired by fetal specimens, this shape was taken from a  formaldehyde jar with a fetus in it. The fetus would be appliqué felt pieces to create depth, inspired by prada's SS14 collection.

This is the final desing that was choosen in the design meeting. The hem is Inspired by the shape of the heart and on the black panel princess seam there will be delicate veins and hearts embroiderd to it.