Tuesday, 10 December 2013

Lazy Hazy days

Lazy Hazy Day's is a project that I was set a few weeks ago. It's the first reaserch and design assignment I have been tasked with so don't be to harsh. The project consists of reaserch into three illustrators which I liked, a SS14 catwalk show ( I've chosen Louis Vuitton naturally), then came development of illustration techniques using a range of media formats.

The first illustrator I decided to reaserch was Katie Rodgers, her use of sequins and glitter in her works captured my attention. She manages to make every illustration girly and with a fun a fun quality. 

As part of my research into her illustration techniques I tried to replicate one of my favorite images she has created. I feel the image is not a bad likeness but I think if I where to attempt it again, I would make her rounder as it looks as though I've slimmed her down some what. 

Next it was jason Brooks, most of his imagery is computer enhanced and has a beautiful flawless quality to it. He also produces some original works with good old pen and paper, which are just as polished and just as beautifull. 

I decided to have a bash at one of his originals as I didn't have the fancy computer programs to utilise, I particularly liked the image as it was very simple in style and the paper looked as though it was torn from a book. My attempt some what like the last seems to be over elongated and not quite true to the  original. 

René, the man behind some amazingly elegant advertisements for dior. I'm totally in love with his illustrations they hark back to the new look and the golden age of fashion. His works appear simple in there composition but every peice is so striking in its finish. 

My René wasn't quite elegant or breath taking but it was a labour of love, I've tried to replicate one of his delicate Dior lingerie posters. I don't feel is a terrible reproduction in so far as the over all dimensions but the shading and added pantys have let me down... Sorry René.

So on to the SS14 spectacular which was the exit for Marc Jacobs at Vuitton. A real inspiration of a man and a really inspirational show. The theme was a macabre fair ground filled with mourning show girls ( mourning the loss of Marc maybe? ). The cat walk was a grand set complied of a huge shag pile carpet with a somba carousel at one end and black water fountain at the other, as usual at a Vuitton show ther where lifts and escilators to add another dimension of movment to the show. 

Luscious hues of black and blue where spread across the collection. Extending not only to the models   gigantic feather headdresses but to new exotic leather noé bags in violently dark blues and adorned with spikes and crystals. 

Many looks where exhibited in the show and I was quite happy to see the return of the Vuitton Stephen Sprouse graffiti. The use of sheer material made the connection to the show girl theme really clear and the use of beading was extravagant to say the least. 

My interpretation on a Louis Vuitton luggage tag. Inscription: Illustrations of 3 Louis Vuitton SS14 garments in the style of Katie Rodgers, Jason brooks and René Gruau. 

Now to the illustrations, I had to number them so I didn't get mixed up. 1, 2 and 3 ( 3 is below ) are all finished using watercolour pans and the have been drawn taking aspects from the three illustrators that I've chosen. Number 1 was in a Katie Rodgers style. Number 2 Jason Brooks and finally 3 in a René fashion. 

When I write style I really mean that very loosely. I've tried my best to draw a René style image but as his images are so vaired I found it difficult. 1a and 2a are photo copy's of the original 1, 2 and 3 but u have then added pencil colour and topped it with tracing paper to give an echoed effect. 

3a is pencil colour again. I've never really liked using pencils as I don't feel the blend together all that well but it creates a different look and almost looks as though it has texture to it. 

On the next three images I have used brushing inks. Even though they are not great to make skin tones with the do blend incredibly well. 

1c, 2c and 3c are still the same image but I have thrown the originl colour palette out of the window and gone for wacky purples and blues.

By the time I had got round to this one I thought, hey why not have some purple skin. At least on the other two I've tryed to keep it near to a human skin colour. Even though the brusho's have created some odd colours I really loved the way they blend and produce new colours. There fab but they stain your skin something rotten! 

I'm not finished yet there is mood boards, customer profiles and some burlesque inspired designs to come. 

Tuesday, 19 November 2013

The Trickle Down Theory.. Trend: FUR

In our marketing sessions, over the past few weeks we have focused on trends and how they make them selves apart of everyday life. I choose to show how fur is a recurring trend every autumn winter and is especially prominent for 2013. 

I first noticed fur was going to be big agin in April when I saw Anna Wintour and Marc Jacobs arrive at a a/w 13 fashion show wearing the same prada mink floral coat, 

It's fair to say they both rocked the look in their own way, right? 

There's no real mystery as to why fur is a recurring trend. Fur (even though it's murder) is a great choice of material to transform even the most simple of trenches into a fabulously luxurious coat with just the addition of fur sleeves. 

Burberry the masters of fur alchemy. 

Fur is something usually reserved for the rich and famous as that's why it's so revered and every time it is back in fashion It appears at the very top, Prada, Dior, Fendi and Louis Vuitton are some of the great houses who utilise the versatile pelts. It starts with the couture, the trend setters who decide weather we will be draped in knitted, lasered, chevron or stranded fur and slowly trickles down, dressing the catwalks and the celebrity's. 

Gaga in a wonderful Hermes fur. 

After the dreams of Hermes furs never come true, cheaper vintage and faux alternatives become the next best thing for the masses. Some may argue they wear faux fore ethical resons but i thinks because they want the Hermes and nothing else. The major pro point to fur is how luxurious it is how it can completely change a collection form dull to desired, that's why it has always been a staple for the great houses 

Here's a mood board I have created showing the trickle down theory. Starting top left is the couture shows and designer uses, then it is seen worn by the celebrity's. Slowly then it filters it's way through home sector and magazines and finally it hits us and is usaully faux. 

Fur is more than a coat it is texture, it is a craft taking years to master and above all fur is fashion.

Monday, 7 October 2013

Fashion History: My Victorian Design

Last week in fashion history class I was given the challenge of designing a outfit that took direct inspiration from the Victorian era.

So I took a look through some of my favorite images from the time and some made since and here are but a few... 

This beautiful gown is now a musem piece, I love its feminine quality and way the fabric looks alive even when still. 


I saw this lady when looking for hair ideas and instantly loved it, it's shabby and disheveled but still so beautifull.  


The bloomer costume inspired me because it freed women making movement and day to day live more enjoyable. 


But on the other hand the crinoline cages and bustles of the period amaze me and the thought of using them in other areas to create different shapes made me ponder.


And who could forget louboutin, even though thease Marrie Antoinette inspired shoes are not victorian in style I think they would complement my ideas perfectly... 


SO TO THE ILLUSTRATIONS! 


I started to draw a slightly elongated feminine shape thinking how big I wanted the skirt and shaping the waist.


Adding more details, the bloomer style pants came in as by this point I'm thinking of a grand stage show and how it would make it easier to move in. The skirt would be made of two layers. The bottom a  crinoline cage covered in delicate silk but cut out arround the legs. The top layer, two silk covered bustles would line each hip to create a umberella effect.


Final touches, using a fine liner I went over everything and added the bows, frills and some last minute gloves. Then I used a berol pen, paint brush and water to great the washed look all over. 

THE ACCESSORIES! 


What great gown would be complete without great styling? I used all the same methods to create the same washed dark feel to the illustration. 


Taking inspiration from louboutin ( for the shoes) and the jewels of Whitby as well as the Victorian mourning accessories. I have drawn thease, the pendant and earring I imagined to be carved in Whitby jet giving a luxurious shine accented with tiny diamonds for a real sparkle. The gloves, I would like them to be almost aged in there appearance with delicate embroidered fringe around the top and three simple  buttons just for decoration. 




Friday, 20 September 2013

York Castle Museum...

 
On Tuesday of this week my college class and I travelled to York, where we visited the Castle Museum.
The museum is famous for its mock-ups of Victoria streets and depictions of everyday life, but also has a collection of beautiful dresses. Our trip was for essential reaserch on the Victorian dressing styles and while many diverse items were displayed I found the section dedicated to mourning most interesting.

This is a mourning dress from the 1800's, very plain in style but beautifully made. 
Owing to the sheer size of this garment, I was amazed the lady who would have originally worn it could have moved around.
Victorians had many superstions surrounding funerals, one of which was that you shouldn't wear anything new to a funeral especially new shoes! Just think today we wouldn't dare turn up in old tatty shoes to a funeral.

One fact I learned in the museum was in the 1800's, magazines were published for the confused mourner. Advice was given to a widow as to what sort of cape to wear and how accessorise their morning outfits. The magazines were not all about style they would also tell you how long you should mourn for and when it was appropriate to start wearing different colours again. 

The museum wasn't all doom and gloom though. In the mock street they had a chemist, a cobbler, and a toy shop but my favorite was the jewellers. They had an amazing assortment of Victorian jewels. 
 
Out of all of the pieces shown, the one that I loved the most, was an outstanding red printed cape, made from silk and trimmed with black ostrich feathers. It was stunning but my photo doesn't do it justice

There were many other exhibits and I have many more photos but these are my top picks.
All the items were simple but well made and I'm astounded that while they are about 150 years old, they still look great.
 
I would like to say a big thanks to Kay and Amy for chaperoning us and for a fab day!

Friday, 13 September 2013

Louis Vuitton: My voyages..

Since I was a child I've gone back and forth from my moms to my dads.
Every week I would pack pack a rather less than stylish bag.
I became somewhat like a gypsy, constantly on the move. 

So as the years when on my holdalls changed, getting bigger but not necessarily better. 
When I realised fashion was for every one and not just models I aspired to grander bags.
Bags not only of practicality but of style, and that's when I stumbled across Louis Vuitton.

A bag of style and substance one day I was going to have it.
I talked my self into the thought that it would make the rigmarole of packing twice or three times a week a enjoyable chore. 

The fund was always started at the beginning of the month, you will save up! 
In my head I would say ill save money, honest I will.
Guess what it never happened. I needed the Keepall 60.

After years of dreams my ambitions grew and now I realised other bags would help too.
The Never full GM would be ideal for college and my folders would fit great! 
Ohh and the Speedy fantastic for work more professional than the never full but just as useful.
Once agin I was convinced I needed them too.

The funds never fell in line by trying to save.
But one day I was lucky enough to come in to some money with thanks to my Grandad. 
There i had it, i could get my dream bags...

My grandad, being the tin man! 

My bags, the Keepall 60, the Never full GM and the Speedy 35. Thank you grandad.

It might seem extravagant or a waste but they really have made my voyages back and forth 
less of a chore, now it's something I don't try to get out of. 
 

Thursday, 12 September 2013

Marilyn Monroe: Her love affair with fashion.



Iconic, stylish and complicated Marilyn was impeccably dresses at all times.
She could be just relaxing at home or at a awards show and no matter what she looked fantastic.
She was enamoured with Emilio Pucci and she was known to buy multiples of one design in all the colour he made. Her love of his garments went so far as to be buried in her favourite Pucci blouse.



Another one of her preferred designers was William Travilla.
 He made costumes for her in eight of her movies including Gentlemen prefer blondes, How to marry a millionaire and The seven year itch. Possibly the most famous dress he made for Marilyn was 
"The Subway Dress" worn in The seven year itch and was recently sold for $4.6 million. 


My all time favourite of all the gowns she ever wore was so tight she was litarally sewn into it, the gown made her look allmost nude and was covered in approximately 2500 rhinestones.
Of course I'm talking about the 1962 Jean Louis dress she sang happy birthday to JFK in, at maddison square garden in front of 15,000 people. All though when it was sold at Christies in 99' it only brought $1.26 million I believe It to be more of a outstanding piece than "the subway dress".
   



Wednesday, 11 September 2013

Playing around with ideas

I've been playing with the idea of putting fur back to its skin. 
Not literally but metaphorically. 
I've been designing some dresses that would be shown with slightly grotesque animal heads covering the models faces. 
Each head would correspond to the pelts worn on the gowns.
The models legs would be uncovered by the gown revealing printed leggings or tights. 
The print would be flesh, yes flesh. Flesh, muscles and possibly a bit of bone too.
I know it sounds mad but I think I might be on to something. 
It might even please PETA, but then again I'm not sure if any thing would. 

Let me know what you think, post a comment, let's converse! 

Jewellery: How to style the Little Black Dress....

I love jewellery as it can make or break your perfect look. When styling to show off the clothes try to go minimal, using delicate chains in either silver or gold (pick to match colour pallet) can add a instant luxury edge when done right. 

Some times it can be hard to make a LDB look less bland. 
But work with the style, for instance if your dress is asymmetric go for a large cuff or statement earring on the lesser side of the dress to balance it out. Or for the plain styled LBD, say with a sweetheart neckline you could go for a bib style necklace it will just make your plain dress stand out from the crowd.
Like this one from cartier or......
This more reasonably priced one from H&M. 

Just play around with different looks but try not to over load on style with too much bling.

Tuesday, 10 September 2013

Jewellery Beautiful Jewellery!

Another great love of mine is jewels, the more colours the better. I recently stumbled across the DIOR CHER collection and I'm in love! 
A jaw dropping pair of earrings from the collection in 18K white gold with diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, demantoid garnets and Paraiba tourmalines.

One of the necklaces in the set is garish but so enamouring, the colours don't really provide a calm pallet but with a black ball gown it would look amazing. The piece comes in18K yellow gold, diamonds, pink sapphires, yellow sapphires, emeralds, demantoid garnets, spessartite garnets, Paraiba tourmalines, purple sapphires and rubies. BEAUTIFUL 

PRADA Floral Fur Coat....

Who wore this better the Anna Wintour or Marc Jacobs?






My current collection of furs.

I believe it is unparalleled for its warmth and durability. 

Fashion: I love it

I've had a strange relationship with fashion.
As far back as I can remember I've drawn sketches but never considered it as a career or some thing I wanted to do until I was twelve or thirteen. I started to look to the likes of McQueen and Westwood and this has given me inspiration for my work. 
I realised fashion didn't have to be so generic, I feel most of my designs reflect this. 

My aim is high quality fashion with a difference.
There is no right or wrong in fashion as long as the garments are cut and finished to the highest of standards. I also feel that it doesn't hurt to stand out from the crowd, we don't all have to dress the same. 

Now, I seek my love of fashion and quality in the likes of Dior, Mulberry and Vuitton as their items stand the test of time. If my name was ever to be mentioned in the same way as these outstanding brands I would be overjoyed because they are the height of perfection when it comes to investment fashion and this is my aim. 

My love of fashion and excellence brings me to fur. 
It amazes me how durable and versatile it is. The looks you can create with pelts are timelessly elegant. One of my favourite ways of using fur is in accessories. You can use it for bags, on boots or even hair pieces because it adds an instant luxury feel to an item even when done in the most subtitle of ways....
....It is also totally practical in the winter seasons. 

                                                                  JAH